Saturday 16 November 2013

Skye: not an island but an intoxication

Just two weeks after moving house, we found ourselves packing our bags again. We'd planned a trip to Skye to tie in with Dave's birthday, and to see good friends of ours who'd recently moved to the Misty Isle.

It had been almost a year and a half since my last trip to Skye, and this was far too long. There was a period of my life when I spent one day a week driving a Rabbies bus round the island, showing my passengers as much as I could in a day. I would often drive the loop round the Trotternish peninsula in the morning, taking photos of the Old Man of Storr, exploring Lealt Falls, seeing Kilt Rock, taking a stroll at the Quiraing, and occasionally visiting the Faerie Glen. After lunch in Portree I'd head west to Neist Point. I absolutely love the drive out there, and relished the challenge of manoeuvering my wee bus round the tight corners as the road weaves its way west. I found such solitude out there - even on the days there were hoards of other people - I always found a quiet spot to myself.

I got to know the island quite well during my time as a tour guide, although I did tend to stick to the same routine on each visit. I was happy to do so; I was showing off as many highlights as I could in one day, and it seemed to work. However I always appreciated the trips Dave and I took out with of work, where we explored parts of Skye slightly off the beaten track. Trips to the coral beaches, the Faerie pools, Elgol, and Sleat provided me with a better understanding and appreciation of the Misty Isle.

I so miss going though, and will always try to fit in a trip when possible. Dave and I were really excited to stay with our friends Bill and Line, who moved to Skye in the summer, to a wee croft outside of Portree.

The drive up was, as always, amazing, with the light and clouds doing truly amazing things.

 
 
 
 
I love love love the drive down Glen Shiel; it has been a favourite for a long time and it never fails to disappoint. It's such a great lead up to arriving on Skye.

Unfortunately it was dark by the time we arrived on the island, but we knew we'd see it properly the next day. It was a chilly evening, but we received a warm welcome from Bill and got straight into the wine!


After a great evening of catching up, we retired to bed - in a tent! Everyone said we were mad to sleep in a tent on Skye in November, but I have to be honest it wasn't proper camping - we had a lamp, a heater, a double mattress, and an electric blanket :) That's what I call camping!

Saturday night was a cold one though - we woke up to find ice outside the tent and a temperature of minus 2!

 

Once the shock of the cold had passed, we realised that we'd struck gold - this was one of those amazing crisp cold blue sky Skye days that you just live for.

I have to mention the amazing breakfast our hosts made for us - scrambled egg and smoked salmon has to be the best way to start your day!


Bill and Line planned to take us to the north of the Trotternish peninsula, to explore an area we'd never been to before. Once we'd finally agreed on where we were going, after much debate, I couldn't wait to get there and get out on this beautiful day.

The views out to the Outer Hebrides were absolutely spectacular - I couldn't believe how lucky we were to have a day such as this. Having spent so much time on Skye (nowhere near as much as Dave and Bill!) I know how fickle the weather can be, and how rare these days are. I had to pinch myself - we'd picked our day pretty well :)

We drove out to Duntulm, and parked just a bit further along from the castle. Bill and Line led the way as we made our way out to Rubha Hunish, the most northerly point of Skye.

 
 
 

 
We made it to this most amazing bothy - what a special place. The panoramas were simply breathtaking, and I felt so lucky to be there.

We made use of the bothy to have our delicious packed lunch, and soak up those tremendous views.

 
 
Then it was time for jumping photos!!

obviously not a jumping photo, but I like it a lot!

 
jump Bill!!

After we got that out of our systems, we made our way down to the very edge of the Trotternish peninsula.

It was a pretty steep drop down initially, and certainly looked dramatic.

 
Once we were down though, the views were simply tremendous! Looking back up to the cliffs above us was extremely impressive, and I loved what the clouds were doing. Soon, the rock formations looked very familiar to what we'd seen on Staffa.

 
 
Frolicking on the rocks felt like being a child again - there was so much to see, so much beauty around us, so many wee nooks and crannies to explore.

I find it very peaceful to watch the movements of the sea, to watch the water crashing over rocks.

 
 
 
It was tough to drag myself away from this beautiful spot. We had it all to ourselves and I felt very at peace.

However time was marching on and it would be dark soon. We wanted to try and get back up to Duntulm before darkness so we really had to drag ourselves away. But before we left Rubha Hunish Bill and Line wanted to show us an amazing sea arch - and there was just time for one more jumping picture!

 
 
 
Rubha Hunish is really one of those special places to visit, and yet again I discovered another part of Skye, another fascinating place on an intoxicating island.

Heading back up the rocky cliff was a bit of a struggle - I did feel out of shape and I was annoyed it had been so long since I'd had a good walk.

Once we got back to the top, the clouds had changed since earlier, and there was stormy weather coming in. The last of the daylight we enjoyed on this special Sunday was even better for these interesting clouds, and I felt so privileged to be watching the sunset here at Duntulm.

 
 
This was one of the best days I've had on Skye, out of many. The company certainly had a lot to do with that, but the weather was definitely the star of the show. Blue skies as far as the eye could see, clear views of the Outer Hebrides, and astonishing panoramas of the mainland and its snow-capped mountains.

A homemade Thai green curry accompanied by plenty more wine was a fitting end to a phenomenal day, and although I was tired the stormy Skye winds ensured I didn't have quite the peaceful night as the day!

Thankfully the tent stayed exactly where it was!

The next day brought cloudier weather, although of course Skye was still as beautiful as ever. Before we left the island Dave and I took a wee trip to the Faerie Glen - his favourite place to go, and fast becoming one of mine. I love to climb to the top of Euan's Castle and admire my surroundings.

 
 
 
As always it was incredibly difficult to leave Skye behind, but of course we'll back soon.

 
 
Thank you Bill and Line for having us and showing us one of your favourite places to go on Skye - now one of ours too :) You made camping in November quite the experience - and not a cold one!

It's good for my soul to feel that fresh Skye air blowing the cobwebs away...not an island, but an intoxication.

This song sums up the weekend for me. Thank you Bill for introducing me to this amazing song, by Borders band Frightened Rabbit. It is perfect:


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